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In 1528 Cortès presented the Spanish King, Charles V with cocoa beans from the New World and the necessary tools for its preparation. For all its regal importance, however, Montezuma's chocolatl was very bitter, and the Spaniards did not find it to their taste. To make the concoction more agreeable to Europeans, Cortez and his countrymen conceived of the idea of sweetening it with cane sugar.

While they took chocolatl back to Spain, the idea found favor and the drink underwent several more changes with newly discovered spices, such as nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon and vanilla. Ultimately, someone decided the drink would taste better if served hot.

The new drink won friends, especially among the Spanish aristocracy. Spain wisely proceeded to plant cocoa in its overseas colonies, which gave birth to a very profitable business. Europe could not get enough of this sweet drink. Many countries established cacao-growing colonies in conquered countries in Africa and the Far East, and because of the huge amount of labour needed to maintain plantations, slavery quickly followed. In the Americas, the forced labour of the Native Americans in sugar and cocoa plantations, combined with exposure to European diseases their immune systems could not fight, led to the decimation of many tribes. The need for more slaves triggered mass importing of African slaves.

But while millions suffered for the sake of cocoa, Europe was just beginning to experiment with the drink.

Remarkably enough, the Spanish succeeded in keeping a secret the source of the drink - the beans - from the rest of Europe for nearly a hundred years. So much so that when the British captured a Spanish vessel loaded with cocoa beans in 1579, the cargo was destroyed as useless.

Had it not been for the expulsion and forced conversion of Jews from the Iberian Peninsula in the late 15th century, chocolate as we know it today might not have become the most favored flavor in the world.

Benjamin d'Acosta de Andrade, a Portuguese "marrano" (secret Jew) who had settled on the island of Martinique in the French West Indies in about 1650, established the first cacao-processing plant. He then used his connections--particularly his relatives in Amsterdam--to export cacao to Europe. Over time, he and other Jews became significant players in the cacao trade, angering their envious competitors, who convinced the French government to bar all Jews from Martinique. Relocating in the late 1600s to the Dutch colony of Curaçao, an island off the west coast of Venezuela, d'Acosta and other Jews reestablished their business, now shipping cacao grown in Venezuela to Amsterdam for chocolate production. In addition, they exported sugar and vanilla from South America.
Chocolate Spreads to Europe

It was Jews that are credited with bringing chocolate to other European countries. It is a miserable story, full of conspiracy and tyranny. Spanish and Portuguese Jews, seeking refuge from persecution by the Inquisition in the seventeenth century, found asylum in the Atlantic port of Bayonne, in South West France, close to the Spanish border. They settled in Saint-Esprit, on the other side of the Ardour River, across from Bayonne. [Histoire des juifs de Bayonne, H Léon, 1893] Although the Jews were afforded asylum, there were restrictions on land ownership, profession, residence and travel, and they were subjected to special taxes. They were required to leave the city every evening by sunset and return across the river to Saint-Esprit.

However, they brought with them the tools and expert knowledge of transforming cocoa into chocolate, together with their contacts in the New World. They were the only experts in this new craft, and although they were precluded from retail commerce, they went to make chocolate at the shops of Bayonnais grocers and even took their tools to the homes of the rich.

There was continuous tension between the Saint-Esprit Jewish community and municipal leaders and in 1602 Henry IV specifically charged the governors of the city of Bayonne to provide the Jews with protection.

The tools that these Jews brought to France had changed little from those of pre-Columbian Olmecs, Maya and Aztecs, grinding the roasted beans with a roller on a heated concave granite stone. This yielded a semi-liquid mass, to which sugar and spices were added, and which was then shaped by hand. Soon Bayonnais workers, following their example, learned to make chocolate, and their numbers steadily increased to the point that a new guild, that of chocolatiers, was constituted. The intention was to restrict the production of chocolate to members of the guild. Membership was obviously not open to Jews. Eventually, in 1767, the courts annulled the guild statutes, but it was too late because the Jews were already long ago pushed out of chocolate making by then. [Crafting the Culture and History of French Chocolate, S J Terrio, 2000]

It did not take long before chocolate was acclaimed throughout Europe as a delicious, health-giving food. In 1643, The French Court Embraces Chocolate: When the Spanish Princess Maria Theresa was betrothed to Louis XIV of France; she gave her fiancé an engagement gift of chocolate, packaged in an elegantly ornate chest. Chocolate was extremely popular with Louis XIV and the members of his Court at Versailles. Louis XIV, The Sun King as he was known, reigned for over 74 years [1643 to 1715] and is considered to be one of the greatest absolute monarchs. His foresight leads him to appoint Sieur David illou to manufacture and sell chocolate.

Chocolate drinking spread across the Channel to Great Britain, and again, Jews are credited with its introduction. A Jewish proprietress opened the earliest English coffeehouse in Oxford in 1650. [Talking of Tea, G Huxley, 1956] Six years later in 1656 Oliver Cromwell formally allowed Jews back into England, but they had begun arriving from Holland before then, bringing tea, coffee and chocolate drinking with them.

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